SPENCER GLACIER WHISTLE STOP PACKRAFT TRIP, ALASKA RAILROAD, CHUGACH NATIONAL FOREST, ALASKA, AUGUST 8-9, 2026

Group photo at the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop Sign
(Jeremy, Dylan, Doug, Wally, Jason, Laura)

PACKRAFTERS:

     Doug Armstrong

     Jason Fish

     Laura Fish

     Jeremy Garrett

     Dylan Hooper

     Wally Hufford

DETAILS:

     Location-Spencer Glacier Lake and Placer River, Alaska.

     Days on the water-2

     Transportation-Portage>Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop onboard the Alaska Railroad, SpencerLake>Seward Highway take-out via packrafts.

     Weather-Sunny and warm.

DAY 1:

     Our group met at the Portage Train station where we loaded our gear onto the Alaska Railroad baggage car.  Once settled into our seats we enjoyed the scenery as we made way for the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.  The ride didn't take long.  Before we knew it we were hauling heavy bags of gear toward the edge of Spencer Lake where we established our camp.  The afternoon was warm and sunny as we readied our packrafts for a float on the lake amongst the glacier-bergs.

      Paddling out onto the lake we encountered a setting that was dramatic and beautiful.  Before us was a lake filled with turquoise water and massive chunks of frozen ice.  Towering mountain peaks surrounded all of it and stretched to the horizon as far as we could see.  It was a scene that filled our eyes just about to the point of disbelief.  It was difficult to take it all in as we bobbed around in our tiny boats looking at each other and occasionally remembering to take a photo.  Using the term otherworldly wouldn't be an exaggeration.

     After we finished our float we made our way back to camp.  We visited with some of our neighbors and eventually made our dinners which we ate with gusto.  Dylan also provided a special beverage for us since he was celebrating his birthday the following day.  We appreciated his efforts and definitely helped him celebrate.

  Later in the evening we took a short walk around the area to check things out.  We followed roads and trails created by the forest service for the rafting concessionaires.  They used them to get clients from the train tracks to the lake.  We wondered how much a trip like the would cost.

     Once back at camp we visited for a while before turning to our tents for a night of slumber.  We had to get up early the next morning because Dylan had to be at the airport in Anchorage around midday.  So the alarms were set for 6:00 AM...but we wouldn't need any alarms.

     

Loading gear onto the baggage car at Portage.

Unloading gear at Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.

Laura and Jason onboard the Alaska Railroad bound for Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.

Dylan paddles near a glacier berg on Spencer Lake.

Paddling amongst the glacier bergs.

Jeremy and the donut hole glacier berg.

Doug paddles on Spencer Lake.

Group photo thru a glacier berg hole.

Camp at the edge of Spencer Lake.

DAY 2:

     Around 5:00 AM tent zippers began to open and close.  Gravel began crunching under tentative steps. Cooking pots clanked before the gentle hum of camp stoves made it clear that morning had begun.  It didn't take long before whispered conversations and muffled laughs grew as more of us joined the party.  It was Dylan's birthday after all and the day was off to a resplendent, albeit early, start.

     We did do our best to keep noise to a minimum since there was a group camping near us and they were still in their tents.  So we ate and assembled our gear with little fanfare.  Then we paddled our way onto the lake skirting the edge as we headed for the outlet. 

      It didn't take long until we were on moving water and facing the most important obstacle of the day.  Just downstream we could see several huge rollers and we knew a sunken railroad car was just below them. 

      Hitting the rollers head on we fell into the troughs that followed each one.  The water was above our heads in some of the troughs and we would drop out of view momentarily just to reappear at the top of the next roller two seconds later.  We all made it with ease and avoided the rail car debris that stuck up above the surface afterward.  It was exhilarating and turned out to be the most zesty part of our adventure.

     The remainder of the float was serene and almost effortless.  We enjoyed the early morning placidity and scenery.  Almost too soon we were the take-out.  We lugged our packrafts ashore and began to prepare everything for the trip home.  

     Once the vehicles were loaded we joined all the other weekend travelers on the Seward Highway and headed straight for a celebratory meal at Kenai River Brewing Company.

     What a trip it was!  

Early morning paddle on the Placer River.  
Headed for the take-out at the Seward Highway.

Gear explosion at the take-out.
 Repacking everything for the ride home.

Laura and her packraft/camping gear.

Gladys the Jeep is loaded with gear for the ride home.

 

SWAN LAKE/MOOSE RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP, KENAI NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, ALASKA, JULY 29-31, 2026

Group photo at the start of the trip (Wally, Doug, Jason, Laura) 
East Entrance of the Swan Lake Canoe Route
Kenai National Wildlife Refuge

PACKRAFTERS:

     Doug Armstrong

     Jason Fish

     Laura Fish

     Wally Hufford

DETAILS:

     Location-Swan Lake Canoe Route, Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska

     Days on the water-3

     Miles paddled-26.5

     Weather-sunny and warm

     Fauna-Two bears (one black, one brown), various birds, spawning salmon, rainbow trout

     Flora-flowers, a few berries

     Campsites-Swan Lake and edge of Moose River

DAY 1:

     We loaded all our gear in the bed of my truck and made the drive to Sterling under exceptionally beautiful skies.  Leaving Doug's car at the Isaac Walton State Recreation Area so we would have a shuttle vehicle at the end of the trip, we then drove the Swanson River Road to the put-in at the East Entrance of the Swan Lake Canoe Route. 

     Upon arrival we readied our gear with exceptional care.  Trying something new we attached our backpacks to the bows of our packrafts with straps.  This bound them together to become a single unit.  When shouldering our packs the packraft would jut into the air allowing us to carry both items at once.  We hoped this configuration would make crossing portages more efficient.  This "backpack2packraft" set up worked just as intended and made the transition from paddling to portaging fast and easy.

     In the gorgeous weather we made our way across several lakes and portages for a total of 6.9 miles that first day. Later in the afternoon we arrived at the Swan Lake campsite and established camp.  After dinner we sat in our chairs and visited about the day before it was time for sleep.  The weather was wonderful and the loons called through much of the night.

Doug Armstrong paddles his packraft across a lake near the start of the trip.

Laura Fish adrift in the refuge canoe trails.

Doug portaging his packraft using the "backpack2packraft" set up.

Laura and Jason portage between Swan Lake and the Moose River.

DAY 2:

     After breakfast we set off to paddle across Swan Lake and cross the short portage to the Moose River.  The beautiful weather continued as we arrived at the edge of the river and soon we were paddling with the aid of the slow moving water.  We frequently had to maneuver fallen trees that crossed the river and did so without too much trouble.  

     After paddling/portaging 7.7 miles we found a campsite on river left that we knew about from talking with several people who had paddled the river before.  We were told it was a good place to camp and once we were there it was obvious why.

     There was a fantastic flat area on a small bluff above the river with plenty of space for several tents.  We could look down onto the flowing river and see some red salmon spawning.  Right behind them we could see some rainbow trout which we quickly set out to catch.  

     Once we had several nice ones on the shore we decided to have a fish fry.  Jason cooked them in butter on his backpacking stove and they were delicious!  The remainder of the day was spent enjoying the sunshine and surroundings.

Jason Fish cooks some trout we caught from the Moose River.

Packrafts on the Moose River.  
(Notice the backpack strapped to the bow of the packraft in the foreground)

DAY 3:

    After all the trips our group had been on this summer the morning routine had become well established  It was simple and streamlined composed of eating breakfast, packing gear for travel, and setting off paddling down the river.  We all knew the drill.  

     Once underway there were more fallen trees to be managed, but otherwise it was a peaceful and tranquil float.  As we rounded one bend we heard Doug say "Hey bear."  Just ahead of us was a small brown bear at the edge of the river.  It disappeared into the tall grass in a split second, as is the case for many bear encounters.  There was nothing threatening about it and nobody got too excited.  

     After several hours of paddling some structures in the distance came into view.  The river widened and became very shallow.  It wasn't long before we floated under the Sterling Highway bridge as it crossed the Moose River.  

     After paddling 11.9 miles we had arrived at Isaac Walton State Recreation Area which was our take-out.  The solitude of the previous days evaporated and it was startling to return to the busyness of campers, fishermen, boaters, dog walkers, and traffic.  The trip was over.  

     While Jason and Laura waited with the gear Doug and I drove back to get my truck where we had left it near the put-in.  As we were driving near Fish Lake a black bear crossed the road in front of us giving a brief glimpse of our second bear of the trip.  Once the shuttle was complete and the vehicles were loaded we headed for Kenai River Brewing Company for food and drink.  It was great way to celebrate another wonderful trip!

The serene Moose River.