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| Denali didn't make an appearance until the morning we left. Then it was strikingly majestic. |
DENALI NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA, SEPTEMBER 6-10, 2023
ATHABASCAN (DENE') LAND
LOGISTICS:
We left Nikiski and drove to Eagle River where we spent the night. The next morning we stopped at the Eagle River Fred Meyer store on the way out of town and shopped for the supplies we would need for the trip. Then we made the drive to Grizzly Bear Cabins which is where we stay during our annual foray to Denali National Park.
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| The scenery was so beautiful Mrs. Huffy couldn't take her eyes off it. |
Day 1: (9/6/23)
The week after Labor Day is traditionally the time we go to Denali National Park. We've made this little trip enough times now that it's routine when we head out the door and up the road. It has become customary to drive from our house in Nikiski to Eagle River where we spend the night before driving to the park. We did just that.
And, while we were in Eagle River we decided to visit a restaurant called Jalapeños Mexican Restaurant and Cantina because we had seen its many ads on TV. We also knew it was a spot where we could get a margarita in remembrance of Jimmy Buffet's passing. Margaritaville was a good place to be on a rainy evening in Eagle River, Alaska.
The next morning we stopped at Fred Meyer on our way out of town to pick up some supplies for the trip. It was the typical fare of convenient breakfast foods and some sandwich makings for our lunches. I honestly think we could keep the same shopping list from year-to-year because we always get the same thing. Actually we probably don't even need a shopping list. We've done it so often we have the items we need memorized.
After shopping we got in the car and poured some juice in the carburetor. We were bound for Denali National Park. Listening to Elton John and The Tragically Hip we cruised down the road making the typical stops for fuel and rest breaks.
In no time we were turning onto the park road and headed for Savage River. Motoring along we gained elevation as the remnants of the previous night's snowstorm crept down the mountainsides, closer and closer to the edge of the road. Near the Vista Parking area the snow was on the road. The bushes were weighed down and bent over with the weight of the snow. We walked down Vista trail a short way and had to turn back due to a deep puddle covering the trail.
We made the drive back toward Grizzly Bear Cabins and checked in at the front desk. It only took a few minutes to stow our gear in the Cheechako cabin (our favorite) and that was when we realized we'd forgotten to pack the cribbage board. Which was kind of embarrassing. Because we had never left it behind. These trips are known for the cribbage tournaments we play.
Mrs. Huffy immediately commented she had the New York Times crossword puzzle downloaded on her phone and we could use them in lieu of playing cribbage. It was all we could do. The string of traditional Denali National Park cribbage tournaments was broken.
Once we got over the disappointment of the missing cribbage board and had eaten dinner it was time for the evening moose patrol. We put binoculars, cameras, and some warm clothing in the car and drove toward Savage River once again.
Moose patrol is the primary reason we go to Denali at this time of year. The moose are rutting and they are often very close to the road. So we drive back and forth waiting and hoping for a moose or two to make themselves visible. None did on this evening. But it was just the first moose patrol of several evenings. We knew things could only get better.
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| The scenery is vibrant this time of the year. |
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| Bright colors with a snowy background. |
Day 2: (9/7/23)
We ate breakfast while working on the New York Times crossword puzzle. As we heated up some water for coffee, tea, and oatmeal, we tried to figure what words would fit in the puzzle spaces. Following breakfast we drove out to Savage River once again hoping to spot some moose along the road. But, we didn't expect much because it was a little late in the day. We didn't see any moose, but we appreciated the spectacular scenery and returned to our cabin for lunch.
That afternoon we took a hike along the Triple Lakes trail. Conveniently it's just across the bridge over the Nenana River from Grizzly Bear Cabins. We hiked along as the clouds were breaking up and the sun began to appear. About a quarter mile from the trailhead we looked up to see a person standing stationary in the middle of the trail. He didn't move out of the path and it was obvious he wanted to to talk. We soon found out that his name was Micheal and he was from Bulgaria. He had spent the summer working at one of the local hotels but hadn't gotten out hiking very much. He said he had difficulty finding people to hike with and was terrified of having an encounter with a bear. So, safety in numbers, so to speak, we took off down the trail as a group of three. It was fun and our conversation covered topics ranging from Lambourghinis to Bulgarian politics.
Liz and I had decided that our destination would be a lake where we would turn around and go back to our cabin. Micheal was unsure about going further by himself, but we assured him that it would be just fine and he took off down the trail on his own. After parting ways we walked back to the cabin under big puffy clouds and sunshine that actually felt warm.
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| Mrs. Huffy and the New York Times crossword puzzle on her phone. |
Once back at the cabin we straightened everything up because we were having company. Things had to look presentable because our dear friends Dave and Sharon were joining us for dinner and moose patrol. They were visiting from Virginia and on a commercial hiking tour of Alaska. We were extremely happy they had a free evening and we could get together. We ordered some Red Curry and Drunken Noodles from a Thai food truck in the Grizzly Bear Cabins parking lot which we complimented with Yellow Eye IPA's. All this happened while sitting around the tiny table in the Cheechako Cabin sharing conversation, laughs, and memories. It really was nice.
After we finished eating we prepped for the nightly moose patrol. I think it was the first one Dave and Sharon had ever been on. Loading our binoculars and cameras in the car we were all set for the evening ritual of driving back and forth on the Park road hoping a moose would show up and make it all worth the effort.
As we drove along we had just passed the rutting moose sign when a cow moose appeared at the side of the road. Looking up the road further a young, gangly, bull crossed the pavement and walked into the bushes. We pulled up and got a good look at him even though he was partially hidden by vegetation. It was a good start to the evening, but we knew there could be more ahead so we drove onward.
The road was noticeably quiet and we began to speculate there must be a moose somewhere that had all the vehicles stopped. This turned out to be true, because it wasn't long before we found a cluster of cars, trucks, and busses, in what could only be a moose jam. We got closer and parked on the edge of the road. Ahead we saw a crowd of people so we walked toward them. They had huge camera lenses, spotting scopes, binoculars, and other moose watching paraphernalia all pointing out into the taiga. Suddenly, there he was...and he had some very large antlers.
Looking out a couple hundred yards we saw a large bull moose just standing there. It seemed like he was just appreciatively lingering in the cool evening air. Every once in a while he would take a couple steps and alter the direction of his interest. Although we couldn't see them it was obvious there were some cows around and he was monitoring their movements. We took a good long while watching that moose through our binoculars and taking photos with our phones.
It was just as fun to watch all the people with their expensive optic gear maneuver and adjust for the best viewing/photographing positions. Everyone's attention was riveted to that moose and every move it made. It was quite the phenomenon. After a half hour or so we decided to get back in the car and see what else we could find. We drove out to Vista before turning around and passing through the moose jam again on the return trip.
We kept driving and before long we spotted the young bull moose we had seen earlier. He was unabashedly attempting to gain the attention of a cow, although she was pretty much ignoring him. He chased all round the area making a big scene. He would run back and forth, then suddenly stop and stand at attention. The cow, on the other hand, was singularly focused on eating
Best of all, though, when we rolled down the car windows we could hear all the moose sounds that were being made. We could even hear the sound of the cow as she ate the vegetation along the edge of the road. It was dang awesome. The bull eventually disappeared and we decided it was time to head back to the cabins. I think we all agreed it was a very successful evening moose patrol.
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| We encountered a young bull moose trying to impress a cow just a few hundred yards beyond this sign. |
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| This is the young guy right here. |
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| A short while later we saw this fellow. |
Day 3 (9/8/23):
This was the day we had reservations to ride the bus to East Fork in hopes of spotting some wildlife and appreciating the fall colors. We also planned to hike in Igloo Canyon. The ride was excellent and we made it to the East Fork, which is as far as the busses go these days due to the construction at Pretty Rocks. This is where we turned around and headed back to Igloo Canyon. That's where we got off at Tattler Creek.
We basically spent a couple hours walking down the road and had a picnic while sitting along the edge of Igloo Creek. Looking around at the colorful sides of the canyon, the clouds, and the sky, I felt like I could've stayed there forever. Every thing was perfect. I know these kinds of places are permanent, but our time in them is temporary. So, grudgingly we flagged down a bus that had room for us and hopped on. In a couple hours we were back at the bus depot. The only wildlife we saw were two caribou on a hillside near the Sanctuary River. They were so far away I didn't even bother to take pictures of them.
Upon returning to our cabin we found a bag of gifts from the Reisling Family, owners of Grizzly Bear Cabins. We were totally surprised and appreciative of the card with kind words and the hats they gave us. They said they appreciated the fact that we had stayed with them for so many years. Liz and I both thought it was a very charming gesture and we appreciated it very much.
That evening we went on moose patrol again and were we ever in for a whopping good show! Just like the evening before the road was very quiet which meant there was a moose jam somewhere. We drove along and found it in the same general area it had been in the night before. We pulled our car off the road and parked before walking toward the crowd of people gathered along the edge of the road.
As we got closer a huge bull moose stepped out of the bushes and nearly straight into some people. It crossed the road passing within inches of vehicles and made its way to the other side. Taking a few steps into the brush it stopped and put its antlers into a rather large bush. Then it shredded that bush into nothingness in 28 seconds. It was honestly one of those times when you are so focused that you're kind of transfixed with astonishment and unaware of anything else.
A few seconds later the bull began walking away from the bush and disappeared into the landscape. Our timing couldn't have been better.
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| This moose came out of nowhere and was suddenly right on the road near a group of people. |
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| After shredding a bush to smithereens he took a look around to survey the scene. |
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| Then he swaggered into the brush. |
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| This person had built moose viewing platform on the top of his rig. |
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| Mrs. Huffy poses aside the bus we rode into the park. |
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| At the East Fork where the busses turn around and go back to the park entrance. |
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| The water, rocks, and snow of the East Fork. |
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| Mrs. Huffy and the fall colors in Igloo Canyon. |
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| The Grizzly Bear Cabins sign. We have stayed here for many years when we visit Denali National Park. |
Day 4: (9/8/23)
The morning started with breakfast and a drive to Healy for fuel and a stop at the Three Bears store where we picked up some bananas. Returning to the cabin we packed a lunch and got things ready for a trip on the Savage River Shuttle bus. We planned to ride it to Savage River and hike the Savage River Trail which would be a new experience for us. Just as we were about to board the bus Liz got a call on her cell phone. Her mom was in the Emergency Room. After a flurry of phone calls and several hours later everything was fine and we were back at the cabin.
We made a trip to a local restaurant where we had some delicious meatloaf and key lime pie for dinner before heading out for the final evening of moose patrol. We drove back and forth on the road several times before it got too dark to see. We didn't find any moose, but that was alright because we had already had several very successful evenings.
We woke up early the next morning and called Liz's mom to check in. Everything had returned to normal so we packed up and hit the road. The drive home was straightforward and along the way we stopped in Anchorage to take Emily grocery shopping before completing the trip to Nikiski.
That was it. Our post-Labor Day trip to Denali was complete and another summer was history. But, of course, we'll be back after Labor Day next year. Of course we will.
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| The many colors of fall in Denali National Park. |
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| A rainbow over Denali country. |
