SPENCER GLACIER WHISTLE STOP PACKRAFT TRIP, ALASKA RAILROAD, CHUGACH NATIONAL FOREST, ALASKA, AUGUST 8-9, 2026

Group photo at the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop Sign
(Jeremy, Dylan, Doug, Wally, Jason, Laura)

PACKRAFTERS:

     Doug Armstrong

     Jason Fish

     Laura Fish

     Jeremy Garrett

     Dylan Hooper

     Wally Hufford

DETAILS:

     Location-Spencer Glacier Lake and Placer River, Alaska.

     Days on the water-2

     Transportation-Portage>Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop onboard the Alaska Railroad, SpencerLake>Seward Highway take-out via packrafts.

     Weather-Sunny and warm.

DAY 1:

     Our group met at the Portage Train station where we loaded our gear onto the Alaska Railroad baggage car.  Once settled into our seats we enjoyed the scenery as we made way for the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.  The ride didn't take long.  Before we knew it we were hauling heavy bags of gear toward the edge of Spencer Lake where we established our camp.  The afternoon was warm and sunny as we readied our packrafts for a float on the lake amongst the glacier-bergs.

      Paddling out onto the lake we encountered a setting that was dramatic and beautiful.  Before us was a lake filled with turquoise water and massive chunks of frozen ice.  Towering mountain peaks surrounded all of it and stretched to the horizon as far as we could see.  It was a scene that filled our eyes just about to the point of disbelief.  It was difficult to take it all in as we bobbed around in our tiny boats looking at each other and occasionally remembering to take a photo.  Using the term otherworldly wouldn't be an exaggeration.

     After we finished our float we made our way back to camp.  We visited with some of our neighbors and eventually made our dinners which we ate with gusto.  Dylan also provided a special beverage for us since he was celebrating his birthday the following day.  We appreciated his efforts and definitely helped him celebrate.

  Later in the evening we took a short walk around the area to check things out.  We followed roads and trails created by the forest service for the rafting concessionaires.  They used them to get clients from the train tracks to the lake.  We wondered how much a trip like the would cost.

     Once back at camp we visited for a while before turning to our tents for a night of slumber.  We had to get up early the next morning because Dylan had to be at the airport in Anchorage around midday.  So the alarms were set for 6:00 AM...but we wouldn't need any alarms.

     

Loading gear onto the baggage car at Portage.

Unloading gear at Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.

Laura and Jason onboard the Alaska Railroad bound for Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.

Dylan paddles near a glacier berg on Spencer Lake.

Paddling amongst the glacier bergs.

Jeremy and the donut hole glacier berg.

Doug paddles on Spencer Lake.

Group photo thru a glacier berg hole.

Camp at the edge of Spencer Lake.

DAY 2:

     Around 5:00 AM tent zippers began to open and close.  Gravel began crunching under tentative steps. Cooking pots clanked before the gentle hum of camp stoves made it clear that morning had begun.  It didn't take long before whispered conversations and muffled laughs grew as more of us joined the party.  It was Dylan's birthday after all and the day was off to a resplendent, albeit early, start.

     We did do our best to keep noise to a minimum since there was a group camping near us and they were still in their tents.  So we ate and assembled our gear with little fanfare.  Then we paddled our way onto the lake skirting the edge as we headed for the outlet. 

      It didn't take long until we were on moving water and facing the most important obstacle of the day.  Just downstream we could see several huge rollers and we knew a sunken railroad car was just below them. 

      Hitting the rollers head on we fell into the troughs that followed each one.  The water was above our heads in some of the troughs and we would drop out of view momentarily just to reappear at the top of the next roller two seconds later.  We all made it with ease and avoided the rail car debris that stuck up above the surface afterward.  It was exhilarating and turned out to be the most zesty part of our adventure.

     The remainder of the float was serene and almost effortless.  We enjoyed the early morning placidity and scenery.  Almost too soon we were the take-out.  We lugged our packrafts ashore and began to prepare everything for the trip home.  

     Once the vehicles were loaded we joined all the other weekend travelers on the Seward Highway and headed straight for a celebratory meal at Kenai River Brewing Company.

     What a trip it was!  

Early morning paddle on the Placer River.  
Headed for the take-out at the Seward Highway.

Gear explosion at the take-out.
 Repacking everything for the ride home.

Laura and her packraft/camping gear.

Gladys the Jeep is loaded with gear for the ride home.

 

SWAN LAKE/MOOSE RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP, KENAI NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, ALASKA, JULY 29-31, 2026

Group photo at the start of the trip (Wally, Doug, Jason, Laura) 
East Entrance of the Swan Lake Canoe Route
Kenai National Wildlife Refuge

PACKRAFTERS:

     Doug Armstrong

     Jason Fish

     Laura Fish

     Wally Hufford

DETAILS:

     Location-Swan Lake Canoe Route, Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska

     Days on the water-3

     Miles paddled-26.5

     Weather-sunny and warm

     Fauna-Two bears (one black, one brown), various birds, spawning salmon, rainbow trout

     Flora-flowers, a few berries

     Campsites-Swan Lake and edge of Moose River

DAY 1:

     We loaded all our gear in the bed of my truck and made the drive to Sterling under exceptionally beautiful skies.  Leaving Doug's car at the Isaac Walton State Recreation Area so we would have a shuttle vehicle at the end of the trip, we then drove the Swanson River Road to the put-in at the East Entrance of the Swan Lake Canoe Route. 

     Upon arrival we readied our gear with exceptional care.  Trying something new we attached our backpacks to the bows of our packrafts with straps.  This bound them together to become a single unit.  When shouldering our packs the packraft would jut into the air allowing us to carry both items at once.  We hoped this configuration would make crossing portages more efficient.  This "backpack2packraft" set up worked just as intended and made the transition from paddling to portaging fast and easy.

     In the gorgeous weather we made our way across several lakes and portages for a total of 6.9 miles that first day. Later in the afternoon we arrived at the Swan Lake campsite and established camp.  After dinner we sat in our chairs and visited about the day before it was time for sleep.  The weather was wonderful and the loons called through much of the night.

Doug Armstrong paddles his packraft across a lake near the start of the trip.

Laura Fish adrift in the refuge canoe trails.

Doug portaging his packraft using the "backpack2packraft" set up.

Laura and Jason portage between Swan Lake and the Moose River.

DAY 2:

     After breakfast we set off to paddle across Swan Lake and cross the short portage to the Moose River.  The beautiful weather continued as we arrived at the edge of the river and soon we were paddling with the aid of the slow moving water.  We frequently had to maneuver fallen trees that crossed the river and did so without too much trouble.  

     After paddling/portaging 7.7 miles we found a campsite on river left that we knew about from talking with several people who had paddled the river before.  We were told it was a good place to camp and once we were there it was obvious why.

     There was a fantastic flat area on a small bluff above the river with plenty of space for several tents.  We could look down onto the flowing river and see some red salmon spawning.  Right behind them we could see some rainbow trout which we quickly set out to catch.  

     Once we had several nice ones on the shore we decided to have a fish fry.  Jason cooked them in butter on his backpacking stove and they were delicious!  The remainder of the day was spent enjoying the sunshine and surroundings.

Jason Fish cooks some trout we caught from the Moose River.

Packrafts on the Moose River.  
(Notice the backpack strapped to the bow of the packraft in the foreground)

DAY 3:

    After all the trips our group had been on this summer the morning routine had become well established  It was simple and streamlined composed of eating breakfast, packing gear for travel, and setting off paddling down the river.  We all knew the drill.  

     Once underway there were more fallen trees to be managed, but otherwise it was a peaceful and tranquil float.  As we rounded one bend we heard Doug say "Hey bear."  Just ahead of us was a small brown bear at the edge of the river.  It disappeared into the tall grass in a split second, as is the case for many bear encounters.  There was nothing threatening about it and nobody got too excited.  

     After several hours of paddling some structures in the distance came into view.  The river widened and became very shallow.  It wasn't long before we floated under the Sterling Highway bridge as it crossed the Moose River.  

     After paddling 11.9 miles we had arrived at Isaac Walton State Recreation Area which was our take-out.  The solitude of the previous days evaporated and it was startling to return to the busyness of campers, fishermen, boaters, dog walkers, and traffic.  The trip was over.  

     While Jason and Laura waited with the gear Doug and I drove back to get my truck where we had left it near the put-in.  As we were driving near Fish Lake a black bear crossed the road in front of us giving a brief glimpse of our second bear of the trip.  Once the shuttle was complete and the vehicles were loaded we headed for Kenai River Brewing Company for food and drink.  It was great way to celebrate another wonderful trip!

The serene Moose River.

WILD RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP, BROOKS RANGE, ALASKA

WILD RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP, BROOKS RANGE, ALASKA, JUNE 29-JULY 6, 2026

PACKRAFTERS:

     Doug Armstrong

     Jason Fish

     Laura Fish

     Wally Hufford

     Irene Lindquist

DETAILS:

     Days on river-8

     River miles paddled-65

     Fauna-beavers (lots of them), a variety of birds, tracks of bear, moose, and caribou.

     Flora-flowers galore

     We did not see any other people during the river portion of the trip.

     Weather was sunny and hot.

     Campsites were exclusively gravel bars along the river.  They were fantastic!

     Mosquitoes were annoying at some camps, but not bad for this part of the world.

We stopped for a photo op at the Arctic Circle sign.

     It wasn't the trip we planned.  But, it was dang near perfect.  Originally we intended to float the North Fork of the Koyukuk.  Then we arrived in Coldfoot during the middle of a gnarly storm that dropped inches of rain.  Dirk, our pilot, let us know that it would be unlikely he would be able to find a gravel bar on the North Fork of the Koyukuk where he could land.  Alaska was flexing her muscles and it was time to think about alternative rivers.  The Wild River was the first to come to mind, so that's what we settled on.  

Doug and Jason wait out the storm in a room at Coldfoot Camp.

     We all rented rooms at Coldfoot Camp.  After a night and long morning of waiting to hear from Dirk we finally got word it was time to fly.  We hastily made our way to the Coyote Air office and began loading gear onto the floatplane.  It would take three trips to get people and gear to Wild Lake.  Eventually we all ended up at the put-in which was actually an old landing strip at the edge of the water which had been used primarily by miners.

The group at Coyote Air.  Ready for departure.

Laura arriving at Wild Lake.

It was drizzling at Wild Lake when we arrived.  So we had dinner under the tarp.

     The next morning we took a tour of the area and walked up the creek from our camp.  We ran across an abandoned mining operation.  It was disheartening to see the mess they had left and how they had altered the stream with bulldozers.  It was definitely a blight on this pristine country.

     

     Later in the afternoon we looked out to see a small boat boat with several people headed across the lake in our direction.  When they got to us we spent the next hour in a conversation learning about their homestead and life on Wild Lake.  It was an absolutely charming discussion and they invited us to their place for dessert that evening.  We really wanted to go, but the wind had picked up by dessert time and none of us wanted to attempt the waves on the open water in our packrafts.  

    

Meet the Wallers.  They have a homestead cabin on Wild Lake.  We had a very pleasant visit with them.

     The next morning it was time to make our move and begin our trip down the Wild River.  Conditions couldn't have been better.  We paddled across glass smooth water to the outlet of the lake.  After a stretch of moving water we reached another lake where we saw dimples on the surface from the fish rising for food.  We didn't know it at the time, but that would be the last evidence of fish we would see.

     

     After that we were once again the on moving water of the Wild River.  We made fast time and after just a few hours we had covered seven miles.  We found a nice gravel bar and decided to make camp which left the remainder of the afternoon for camp chores and relaxation.  This would become the pattern of our days for the remainder of the trip.  Due to the shorter length of the Wild River we were in no hurry and the weather was exquisite.  There was no reason to rush.

Jason prepares breakfast at the edge of Wild Lake.

All that gear goes inside the tubes of the packraft.

                                                   

Packrafts afloat on the Wild River.

Irene stretches before we begin paddling for the day.

Bear tracks along the edge of the Wild River.

Mealtime

Afternoon relaxation in folding chairs at the edge of the river was an important part of the trip.

     We paddled, camped, relaxed, and ate one day into the next.  It was sublime.  We watched beavers as they slapped their tails at us and took in the beauty of the surrounding mountains.  We were a world away from the consternation of daily life.  I think we all appreciated that.  

     And, we ate fresh homemade bread with butter every afternoon.  Our friend, Gena, had made it and sent it along with us.  We brought the butter for cooking fish, but since the fishing wasn't good we decided to derelict its use and spread it on the bread.  It was a very good decision.

     After we had set up camp on the afternoon of the Fourth of July, Laura surprised everyone by passing around decorations so we all could participate.  We spent the afternoon wearing red, white, and blue necklaces and headgear.  It was a great way to celebrate Independence Day at the edge of a remote river in the Brooks Range above the Arctic Circle.

Laura brought decorations for our Fourth of July celebration.

     On our final day of paddling we had just a few miles of the Wild River remaining before it flowed into the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk.  We were surprised when we arrived at the confluence of the two rivers. The volume of water was huge and fast.  We made the last couple of miles to Bettles in no time and landed on a gravel beach where we left our gear and headed into town in hopes of renting a room at the Bettles Lodge.

Jason paddles in front of a rock face along the Wild River.

We had a gear explosion on the beach when we arrived in Bettles.

     After considerable confusion the lodge staff determined there weren't any rooms available.  So we decided to camp at the Bettles baseball field, which we checked out before heading back to the river for our gear.  Once we were back with our gear two guys showed up to "move their boat."  We quickly enlisted their help and they loaded our bags onto a side-by-side and pickup truck.  Minutes later we were setting up our tents at the baseball field under a sweltering sun.

     Then it was time for a tour of Bettles.  We visited the Bettles Ranger Station where we talked with Ranger Indigo and found out there would be a presentation about antlers and horns later in the afternoon.  Then we sauntered over to Brooks Range Aviation headquarters where we got some ice cream treats.  We wandered around for a while before returning to the Ranger Station for the presentation and then to the Bettles Lodge for dinner.  We had also made contact with Coyote Air during this time and they said they could pick us up the next day.  Things were working out splendidly.

A couple guys showed up to "move the boat."  They helped us out by transporting our gear to  the Bettles camp area.

We visited the Bettles Ranger Station where they had internet.  Later that afternoon we also attended a Ranger presentation about antlers and horns.

We ate several meals at the Bettles Lodge.

   After spending the night at the baseball field we went to the Bettles Lodge for breakfast the next morning.  We slowly packed our gear and walked around town again before waiting at the edge of the runway for our plane to arrive.  Then, we were suddenly back in Coldfoot having a late lunch before making the drive back to Fairbanks.  

     The trip was over...but we're already making plans for the next one.  Hope it's just as perfect.

The view from the floatplane flying back to Coldfoot.

DENALI NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA, SEPTEMBER 3-6, 2025

DENALI NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA, SEPTEMBER 3-6, 2025

Fall colors near the Savage River in Denali National Park.

DAY 1:  (September 2, 2025)

     We lit out from Anchorage bound for lunch at Denali Brewing, which is just a few miles down the Talkeetna Spur Road.  After enjoying a mushroom pizza we returned to the road and drove to K'esugi Ken Campground whee we had secured the Denali Cabin.  Arriving at 1:34 PM we had plenty of time for a hike around the campground trails and a game of cribbage.  The cabin is large with several rooms and even has electricity.  Later in the evening we enjoyed listening to a concert on my camo JBL speaker which included Liz's playlist.  The following songs were included:

Times Like These  (Foo Fighters)

Closer to Fine  (Indigo Girls)

Tiny Dancer  (Elton John)

Zombie  (The Cranberries)

Jim Dndy  (La Vern Baker)

Tweedle Dee  (La Vern Baker)

For What It's Worth  (Sawyer Fredericks)

Your Song  (Elton John)

Voodoo Voodoo  (La Vern Baker)

The Room Where It Happens  (Leslie Odem, Jr. and Lin-Manuel-Miranda)

Who'll Stand With Us  (Dropkick Murphy's)

Least Complicated  (Indigo Girls)

DAY 2:  (September 3, 2025)

   After a restful night in the cabin we awoke to more cloudy skies and light rain.  After a quick breakfast and a morning stroll we returned to the cabin for another game of cribbage, which Liz won handily.  Then we loaded everything in the truck and took off for Denali National Park.We made our way to the Mountain Vista area where we had a picnic and walked around the Mountain Vista Trail.  There were lots of people hiking with us.  Everyone seemed happy to be there and appreciating the scenery.

     Back in the truck we drove to the Savage River Campground in hopes of finding Janette Cadieux and her sister Mary.  It so happened they were just returning from a morning hike and we sat down at their picnic table for a good visit.  We also made plans to pick them up later in the evening for Moose Patrol.  After that we returned to the park entrance and Grizzly Bear Cabins where we checked in.  It was good to be back at the Cheechako Cabin.

     After dinner at the Thai Food Truck we went back to get Janette and Mary for the evening's main event.  We drove out to Savage River where we got photos of the fall colors with rocks and sky.  It was beautiful.  

     Back on the road we spotted a Northern Hawk Owl and before long our first moose jam.  A cow and calf stood near the edge of the road staring at the commotion of vehicles they were causing.  After getting a good look we pressed on.  Just a few miles later we saw flashing lights, busses, RV's, and various other vehicles stopped in the road.  We knew it had to be something good.  And, it was.

      When we got near the action we saw a good sized bull practically standing on the pavement.  He was nonchalantly browsing on twigs while a major cluster of people watched and took photos.  Janette especially took photos.  Fifty-eight of them in fact.  Everyone was happy and single-mindedly focused on the bull.  It was as fun to watch the people as it was to watch the moose.

     All-in-all we saw 10 moose and a Northern Hawk Owl, so it was a good evening.  After returning Janette and Mary to their campsite it was back to the cabin for some rest because we were renting bikes the next day.

A bull moose partially hidden by vegetation at the edge of the park road.

DAY 3:  (September 4, 2025)

     We had been watching the weather forecast and decided today would be our best bet for favorable bike riding conditions.  So, we made our way to Bike Denali and rented some ebikes.  In short order we were pedaling the park road bound for Mountain Vista.  It took us about and hour-and-a-half to get there under mostly sunny skies.  We took a break there and had a picnic.  Then it was back on the road for the downhill trip back to the park entrance.  It was fun as we cruised along rather effortlessly.  After returning the bikes we went back to the cabin and made plans for dinner at Creekside where Liz had fish-n-chip and I had halibut tacos.

     Moose Patrol was very good and we lost count of the number of moose we saw.  There were many moose jams and the wildlife officer was working at a frenzied pace to keep the road passable.  At one point we saw two bills sparring at the edge of the road almost directly in front of us!

Sunrise in Denali country.

Taking a break at the edge of the park road during our bike ride.

Posing with bikes at the park entrance sign.

DAY 4 :  (September 5, 2025)

     We caught the 10:00 AM bus bound for the East Fork which was loaded with pleasant and excited people speaking many different languages.  Most significantly, we came to realize our driver, Rex, had been our driver on a previous bus many years ago.  We thought it was funny because he continued his legacy of of providing misinformation. 

     As he drove along he explained the Congressional closure of Sable Pass was was done so "late risers have a chance to see the wildlife before it gets scared away by early busses and hikers."  We had a good laugh over that.  That aside, the ride was genuinely good and we were lucky enough to spot the Big Four--Dall sheep, caribou, moose, and grizzly bear.  My favorite was the group of seven caribou that crossed the road in front of our bus at the Teklanika River flats.

     Back at the park entrance we made a brief stop at the gift shop then hiked a portion of the Triple Lakes trail.  We made it across the suspension bridge before turning back.  As we were walking along we heard a train whistle from a distance and saw it pass over a trestle above Riley Creek.We were too far away and the foliage was too dense for photos.  But, we ran into a railroad employee that got some good images which he shared with us as we walked along.  He was a very friendly guy and told us he was getting ready to move back to Ohio after the season was over here in Alaska.

     The weather became more beautiful as the day progressed and conditions were perfect when it was Moose Patrol time.  Once again, there were lots of moose and several jams as we made our first pass.  At one particular sighting we got out of the truck and watched as a large bull meandered along the edge of the road.  

     As we stood there a lady and her daughter came up behind us loudly complaining about the wildlife officer whom had evidently told her that all four wheels of her vehicle had to be parked off the pavement.  The disconcerted lady said that in all her previous years only two wheels had to be off the road.  This new rule was extremely troubling for her and she continued on about it ad nauseam.  We finally went back to our truck and she followed us complaining the entire way.  She even knocked on our window and wanted us to to listen to her repeat her four wheel/two wheel lamentation.  I told her I didn't care and rolled up the window. Then slowly drove away thinking it was over.

     We drove to Mountain Vista and along the way Liz said, "The mountain is out!"  Sure enough, the clouds had cleared and there it was in all its grandeur.  It was the only time we saw it on this trip.  We got plenty of photos before turning back for a final pass through now what could be termed "Moose Alley"  due to the significant numbers of moose on this section of the road.

     Continuing to drive along we entered the previous moose jam and saw a guy with a camera walking deeply into the brush.We crept along in the truck before parking-all four wheels off the pavement-and walked down the road.  That's when once again we heard the lady and she was still complaining about the wildlife officer and the parking problems.  

     She was still going on when a minor confrontation began to escalate between the man from the bushes and other moose viewers along the edge of the road.  The moose viewers were upset at the man because he had scared the moose away and nobody could watch it anymore.  The man countered saying he had "every right to go into the bushes," and he "didn't scare it away."  

     Suddenly, the lady who was complaining about the parking situation shows up in defense of the bush walker guy, who, as it turns out, was her husband.  You can probably imagine how this compounded the entire situation.  Insults were hurled back and forth at an increasingly rapid pace.  Soon the lady was exclaiming that she and her husband were "from here" and could do whatever they wanted because they've "been here for 21-years," and so on.

     We left the scene to finish our final Moose Patrol of the trip in hopes of getting away from the fiasco which continued to unfold in front of us.  In that we were successful.

     Putting the drama behind us we went back to the cabin where we would get another good night of rest. The next morning we got up and packed our gear.  Our trip wasn't over because we were continuing on to Fairbanks, but we were already making plans for our next foray to Denali National Park.  

TRIP STATS:

Miles driven:  1122.5 (that included driving from Anchorage>Denali National Park>Fairbanks and return via Richardson Highway)

Cribbage Tournament Winner:  Mrs. Huffy (it should be noted she had two 24 point hands as well)

Ebike miles ridden:  Approximately 29

Moose:  Approximately 25

Caribou:  7

Grizzly bear:  1

Dall Sheep:  10

Northern Hawk Owl:  2

Ptarmigan:  Approximately 20

Caribou at the Teklanika River flats.

A bull moose near the park road.

Sign at the East Fork where the busses turn around.

Caribou in follow-the-leader formation.

The bus we rode in to the East Fork.

Grizzly bear near Sable Pass.

Evening light near Mountain Vista.

Fall colors.

The suspension bridge across Riley Creek on the Triple Lakes trail.

Moose jam.

Denali came out the last evening we were there.

The Cheechako cabin.