DENALI NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA, SEPTEMBER 8-11, 2026

A grizzly bear near the Savage River.

DAY 1:  (September 8, 2026)

     We were a tad late making reservations for our post-Labor Day trip to Denali National Park this year.  So late, in fact, that the Cheechako cabin we normally stay in had been reserved by other guests.  Hence, we ended up in the Pioneer cabin which was great because it was roomier than the Cheechako and had a private shower.

     Upon our arrival it appeared there weren't many other guests and we essentially had the place to ourselves.  We could still hear highway noise and the train whistles, but all was quiet otherwise.  

     It didn't take long for us to get settled and be on our way for our first drive out to the Savage River.  The fall colors were in full display with vivid reds, yellows, and purples stretching from one horizon to the other.  It was sensory overload and, although we have seen this display many times, we were delighted with the panorama as it unfolded in front of us.

     As we neared the Savage River we spotted a cluster of cars and knew wildlife had been spotted.  When we got closer we could see a grizzly bear several hundred yards off in the distance.  We stopped for a photo and watched it amble through the river bottom for several minutes.  Following that brief stop we got back on the road and drove toward the Savage River parking area.

     Moose patrol included making several passes up and down the road and we eventually saw a small bull with five cows.  We stopped for more photos and hoped a larger bull would appear.  That never happened. Eventually as darkness approached we drove back to the cabin ready for rest after a full day of adventuring.

A cow moose along the Denali Park Road.

A young bull moose at full attention.

DAY 2:  (September 9, 2026)

     We keep a close eye on the weather forecast while we are on these trips and try to plan our activities accordingly.  Today looked like a good day for a bike ride because there wasn't any rain expected.  We rent bikes from Bike Denali and ride from the park entrance to the Mountain Vista Rest Area every year.  It's 27.3 miles round trip and although rain wasn't a problem a stiff headwind certainly was.  By the time we got to the rest area we were frozen.  After a quick lunch we were back on the bikes and headed back to the park entrance.  It was a considerable improvement going this direction because we were going downhill and had a tailwind.  The sun even came out as we pedaled along, which warmed our spirits as well as our frozen fingers.  

  Moose patrol that evening consisted of two small bulls and a cow.  We were wondering where the big bulls were hiding, but didn't worry too much since we still had one more evening to find them.

We rented bikes and rode from the Park Entrance to  Mountain Vista Rest Area.

Mrs. Huffy had exceptionally good luck at cribbage this trip.

DAY 3:  (September 10, 2026)

     This day we had reservations for the bus ride to the East Fork.  We were looking forward to it and got to the station in plenty of time to wait in line for good seats.  Once onboard we travelled along listening to the bus driver's narration and enjoying the scenery as it passed by.  We saw the bear that had been at the Savage River for the past few days and caught a very brief glimpse of four caribou near Teklanika Campground.  There were, of course, Dall Sheep at Igloo Mountain.  They were tiny white specks on the mountain tops but all the bus riders were eager to look at them.   

     Riding along Mrs. Huffy and I reminded each other of all the memories we had in this area.  There were hikes at Tattler Creek, picnics along the road, a lynx catching and eating a snowshoe hare near Sable Pass, not to mention the numerous bears we had seen in this area over the years.

     Before long we were at the East Fork which was the turnaround point of the trip.  Next season the road will finally be open all the way to Wonder Lake as the bridge around Pretty Rocks has been finished.  We can't wait for that!  The ride back was fairly quiet although we did see some ptarmigan, a snowshoe hare, and a cow moose.  

     But, the real prize wildlife sighting came later in the evening during Moose Patrol.  Thats when we saw a huge bull...finally.  It happened as we were slowly driving along and I noticed something move far off in the distance.  We stopped and got the big binoculars out.  He was far away but it was the bull we had been looking for.  Mrs. Huffy got the best photo with her phone and before long all sorts of vehicles were stopped around us taking in the spectacle.  We helped some tourists locate the bull and let them use our binoculars to watch it for several minutes.  After a while the moose disappeared into the landscape and we made our way back to the cabin.  Our big bull search had been a success...albeit a long distance one.

     The next morning we awoke to beautiful weather and made one last drive to the Mountain Vista Rest Area before turning north and heading to Fairbanks.  Along the way we stopped for a short hike on the Antler Ridge Trail near Healy.  The views of the area were spectacular and the colors popped under clear sunny skies.  It was a great way to end our post-Labor Day trip to Denali National Park...and guess what...we'll do the same thing next year!

The view as we rode the bus to the East Fork.

East Fork signage and scenery.  
Next season the road is scheduled to be open the entire way to Wonder Lake.

Rock and the East Fork.

The outcrop of rocks near the Savage River parking area.

A large bull moose in the fall colors of Denali National Park.

The fall landscape of Denali National Park.

The table in our cabin was busy during our stay.

We stayed in the Pioneer cabin this year because the Cheechako had already been reserved by other guests.

SPENCER GLACIER WHISTLE STOP PACKRAFT TRIP, ALASKA RAILROAD, CHUGACH NATIONAL FOREST, ALASKA, AUGUST 8-9, 2026

Group photo at the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop Sign
(Jeremy, Dylan, Doug, Wally, Jason, Laura)

PACKRAFTERS:

     Doug Armstrong

     Jason Fish

     Laura Fish

     Jeremy Garrett

     Dylan Hooper

     Wally Hufford

DETAILS:

     Location-Spencer Glacier Lake and Placer River, Alaska.

     Days on the water-2

     Transportation-Portage>Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop onboard the Alaska Railroad, SpencerLake>Seward Highway take-out via packrafts.

     Weather-Sunny and warm.

DAY 1:

     Our group met at the Portage Train station where we loaded our gear onto the Alaska Railroad baggage car.  Once settled into our seats we enjoyed the scenery as we made way for the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.  The ride didn't take long.  Before we knew it we were hauling heavy bags of gear toward the edge of Spencer Lake where we established our camp.  The afternoon was warm and sunny as we readied our packrafts for a float on the lake amongst the glacier-bergs.

      Paddling out onto the lake we encountered a setting that was dramatic and beautiful.  Before us was a lake filled with turquoise water and massive chunks of frozen ice.  Towering mountain peaks surrounded all of it and stretched to the horizon as far as we could see.  It was a scene that filled our eyes just about to the point of disbelief.  It was difficult to take it all in as we bobbed around in our tiny boats looking at each other and occasionally remembering to take a photo.  Using the term otherworldly wouldn't be an exaggeration.

     After we finished our float we made our way back to camp.  We visited with some of our neighbors and eventually made our dinners which we ate with gusto.  Dylan also provided a special beverage for us since he was celebrating his birthday the following day.  We appreciated his efforts and definitely helped him celebrate.

  Later in the evening we took a short walk around the area to check things out.  We followed roads and trails created by the forest service for the rafting concessionaires.  They used them to get clients from the train tracks to the lake.  We wondered how much a trip like the would cost.

     Once back at camp we visited for a while before turning to our tents for a night of slumber.  We had to get up early the next morning because Dylan had to be at the airport in Anchorage around midday.  So the alarms were set for 6:00 AM...but we wouldn't need any alarms.

     

Loading gear onto the baggage car at Portage.

Unloading gear at Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.

Laura and Jason onboard the Alaska Railroad bound for Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.

Dylan paddles near a glacier berg on Spencer Lake.

Paddling amongst the glacier bergs.

Jeremy and the donut hole glacier berg.

Doug paddles on Spencer Lake.

Group photo thru a glacier berg hole.

Camp at the edge of Spencer Lake.

DAY 2:

     Around 5:00 AM tent zippers began to open and close.  Gravel began crunching under tentative steps. Cooking pots clanked before the gentle hum of camp stoves made it clear that morning had begun.  It didn't take long before whispered conversations and muffled laughs grew as more of us joined the party.  It was Dylan's birthday after all and the day was off to a resplendent, albeit early, start.

     We did do our best to keep noise to a minimum since there was a group camping near us and they were still in their tents.  So we ate and assembled our gear with little fanfare.  Then we paddled our way onto the lake skirting the edge as we headed for the outlet. 

      It didn't take long until we were on moving water and facing the most important obstacle of the day.  Just downstream we could see several huge rollers and we knew a sunken railroad car was just below them. 

      Hitting the rollers head on we fell into the troughs that followed each one.  The water was above our heads in some of the troughs and we would drop out of view momentarily just to reappear at the top of the next roller two seconds later.  We all made it with ease and avoided the rail car debris that stuck up above the surface afterward.  It was exhilarating and turned out to be the most zesty part of our adventure.

     The remainder of the float was serene and almost effortless.  We enjoyed the early morning placidity and scenery.  Almost too soon we were the take-out.  We lugged our packrafts ashore and began to prepare everything for the trip home.  

     Once the vehicles were loaded we joined all the other weekend travelers on the Seward Highway and headed straight for a celebratory meal at Kenai River Brewing Company.

     What a trip it was!  

Early morning paddle on the Placer River.  
Headed for the take-out at the Seward Highway.

Gear explosion at the take-out.
 Repacking everything for the ride home.

Laura and her packraft/camping gear.

Gladys the Jeep is loaded with gear for the ride home.

 

SWAN LAKE/MOOSE RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP, KENAI NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, ALASKA, JULY 29-31, 2026

Group photo at the start of the trip (Wally, Doug, Jason, Laura) 
East Entrance of the Swan Lake Canoe Route
Kenai National Wildlife Refuge

PACKRAFTERS:

     Doug Armstrong

     Jason Fish

     Laura Fish

     Wally Hufford

DETAILS:

     Location-Swan Lake Canoe Route, Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska

     Days on the water-3

     Miles paddled-26.5

     Weather-sunny and warm

     Fauna-Two bears (one black, one brown), various birds, spawning salmon, rainbow trout

     Flora-flowers, a few berries

     Campsites-Swan Lake and edge of Moose River

DAY 1:

     We loaded all our gear in the bed of my truck and made the drive to Sterling under exceptionally beautiful skies.  Leaving Doug's car at the Isaac Walton State Recreation Area so we would have a shuttle vehicle at the end of the trip, we then drove the Swanson River Road to the put-in at the East Entrance of the Swan Lake Canoe Route. 

     Upon arrival we readied our gear with exceptional care.  Trying something new we attached our backpacks to the bows of our packrafts with straps.  This bound them together to become a single unit.  When shouldering our packs the packraft would jut into the air allowing us to carry both items at once.  We hoped this configuration would make crossing portages more efficient.  This "backpack2packraft" set up worked just as intended and made the transition from paddling to portaging fast and easy.

     In the gorgeous weather we made our way across several lakes and portages for a total of 6.9 miles that first day. Later in the afternoon we arrived at the Swan Lake campsite and established camp.  After dinner we sat in our chairs and visited about the day before it was time for sleep.  The weather was wonderful and the loons called through much of the night.

Doug Armstrong paddles his packraft across a lake near the start of the trip.

Laura Fish adrift in the refuge canoe trails.

Doug portaging his packraft using the "backpack2packraft" set up.

Laura and Jason portage between Swan Lake and the Moose River.

DAY 2:

     After breakfast we set off to paddle across Swan Lake and cross the short portage to the Moose River.  The beautiful weather continued as we arrived at the edge of the river and soon we were paddling with the aid of the slow moving water.  We frequently had to maneuver fallen trees that crossed the river and did so without too much trouble.  

     After paddling/portaging 7.7 miles we found a campsite on river left that we knew about from talking with several people who had paddled the river before.  We were told it was a good place to camp and once we were there it was obvious why.

     There was a fantastic flat area on a small bluff above the river with plenty of space for several tents.  We could look down onto the flowing river and see some red salmon spawning.  Right behind them we could see some rainbow trout which we quickly set out to catch.  

     Once we had several nice ones on the shore we decided to have a fish fry.  Jason cooked them in butter on his backpacking stove and they were delicious!  The remainder of the day was spent enjoying the sunshine and surroundings.

Jason Fish cooks some trout we caught from the Moose River.

Packrafts on the Moose River.  
(Notice the backpack strapped to the bow of the packraft in the foreground)

DAY 3:

    After all the trips our group had been on this summer the morning routine had become well established  It was simple and streamlined composed of eating breakfast, packing gear for travel, and setting off paddling down the river.  We all knew the drill.  

     Once underway there were more fallen trees to be managed, but otherwise it was a peaceful and tranquil float.  As we rounded one bend we heard Doug say "Hey bear."  Just ahead of us was a small brown bear at the edge of the river.  It disappeared into the tall grass in a split second, as is the case for many bear encounters.  There was nothing threatening about it and nobody got too excited.  

     After several hours of paddling some structures in the distance came into view.  The river widened and became very shallow.  It wasn't long before we floated under the Sterling Highway bridge as it crossed the Moose River.  

     After paddling 11.9 miles we had arrived at Isaac Walton State Recreation Area which was our take-out.  The solitude of the previous days evaporated and it was startling to return to the busyness of campers, fishermen, boaters, dog walkers, and traffic.  The trip was over.  

     While Jason and Laura waited with the gear Doug and I drove back to get my truck where we had left it near the put-in.  As we were driving near Fish Lake a black bear crossed the road in front of us giving a brief glimpse of our second bear of the trip.  Once the shuttle was complete and the vehicles were loaded we headed for Kenai River Brewing Company for food and drink.  It was great way to celebrate another wonderful trip!

The serene Moose River.

WILD RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP, BROOKS RANGE, ALASKA

WILD RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP, BROOKS RANGE, ALASKA, JUNE 29-JULY 6, 2026

PACKRAFTERS:

     Doug Armstrong

     Jason Fish

     Laura Fish

     Wally Hufford

     Irene Lindquist

DETAILS:

     Days on river-8

     River miles paddled-65

     Fauna-beavers (lots of them), a variety of birds, tracks of bear, moose, and caribou.

     Flora-flowers galore

     We did not see any other people during the river portion of the trip.

     Weather was sunny and hot.

     Campsites were exclusively gravel bars along the river.  They were fantastic!

     Mosquitoes were annoying at some camps, but not bad for this part of the world.

We stopped for a photo op at the Arctic Circle sign.

     It wasn't the trip we planned.  But, it was dang near perfect.  Originally we intended to float the North Fork of the Koyukuk.  Then we arrived in Coldfoot during the middle of a gnarly storm that dropped inches of rain.  Dirk, our pilot, let us know that it would be unlikely he would be able to find a gravel bar on the North Fork of the Koyukuk where he could land.  Alaska was flexing her muscles and it was time to think about alternative rivers.  The Wild River was the first to come to mind, so that's what we settled on.  

Doug and Jason wait out the storm in a room at Coldfoot Camp.

     We all rented rooms at Coldfoot Camp.  After a night and long morning of waiting to hear from Dirk we finally got word it was time to fly.  We hastily made our way to the Coyote Air office and began loading gear onto the floatplane.  It would take three trips to get people and gear to Wild Lake.  Eventually we all ended up at the put-in which was actually an old landing strip at the edge of the water which had been used primarily by miners.

The group at Coyote Air.  Ready for departure.

Laura arriving at Wild Lake.

It was drizzling at Wild Lake when we arrived.  So we had dinner under the tarp.

     The next morning we took a tour of the area and walked up the creek from our camp.  We ran across an abandoned mining operation.  It was disheartening to see the mess they had left and how they had altered the stream with bulldozers.  It was definitely a blight on this pristine country.

     

     Later in the afternoon we looked out to see a small boat boat with several people headed across the lake in our direction.  When they got to us we spent the next hour in a conversation learning about their homestead and life on Wild Lake.  It was an absolutely charming discussion and they invited us to their place for dessert that evening.  We really wanted to go, but the wind had picked up by dessert time and none of us wanted to attempt the waves on the open water in our packrafts.  

    

Meet the Wallers.  They have a homestead cabin on Wild Lake.  We had a very pleasant visit with them.

     The next morning it was time to make our move and begin our trip down the Wild River.  Conditions couldn't have been better.  We paddled across glass smooth water to the outlet of the lake.  After a stretch of moving water we reached another lake where we saw dimples on the surface from the fish rising for food.  We didn't know it at the time, but that would be the last evidence of fish we would see.

     

     After that we were once again the on moving water of the Wild River.  We made fast time and after just a few hours we had covered seven miles.  We found a nice gravel bar and decided to make camp which left the remainder of the afternoon for camp chores and relaxation.  This would become the pattern of our days for the remainder of the trip.  Due to the shorter length of the Wild River we were in no hurry and the weather was exquisite.  There was no reason to rush.

Jason prepares breakfast at the edge of Wild Lake.

All that gear goes inside the tubes of the packraft.

                                                   

Packrafts afloat on the Wild River.

Irene stretches before we begin paddling for the day.

Bear tracks along the edge of the Wild River.

Mealtime

Afternoon relaxation in folding chairs at the edge of the river was an important part of the trip.

     We paddled, camped, relaxed, and ate one day into the next.  It was sublime.  We watched beavers as they slapped their tails at us and took in the beauty of the surrounding mountains.  We were a world away from the consternation of daily life.  I think we all appreciated that.  

     And, we ate fresh homemade bread with butter every afternoon.  Our friend, Gena, had made it and sent it along with us.  We brought the butter for cooking fish, but since the fishing wasn't good we decided to derelict its use and spread it on the bread.  It was a very good decision.

     After we had set up camp on the afternoon of the Fourth of July, Laura surprised everyone by passing around decorations so we all could participate.  We spent the afternoon wearing red, white, and blue necklaces and headgear.  It was a great way to celebrate Independence Day at the edge of a remote river in the Brooks Range above the Arctic Circle.

Laura brought decorations for our Fourth of July celebration.

     On our final day of paddling we had just a few miles of the Wild River remaining before it flowed into the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk.  We were surprised when we arrived at the confluence of the two rivers. The volume of water was huge and fast.  We made the last couple of miles to Bettles in no time and landed on a gravel beach where we left our gear and headed into town in hopes of renting a room at the Bettles Lodge.

Jason paddles in front of a rock face along the Wild River.

We had a gear explosion on the beach when we arrived in Bettles.

     After considerable confusion the lodge staff determined there weren't any rooms available.  So we decided to camp at the Bettles baseball field, which we checked out before heading back to the river for our gear.  Once we were back with our gear two guys showed up to "move their boat."  We quickly enlisted their help and they loaded our bags onto a side-by-side and pickup truck.  Minutes later we were setting up our tents at the baseball field under a sweltering sun.

     Then it was time for a tour of Bettles.  We visited the Bettles Ranger Station where we talked with Ranger Indigo and found out there would be a presentation about antlers and horns later in the afternoon.  Then we sauntered over to Brooks Range Aviation headquarters where we got some ice cream treats.  We wandered around for a while before returning to the Ranger Station for the presentation and then to the Bettles Lodge for dinner.  We had also made contact with Coyote Air during this time and they said they could pick us up the next day.  Things were working out splendidly.

A couple guys showed up to "move the boat."  They helped us out by transporting our gear to  the Bettles camp area.

We visited the Bettles Ranger Station where they had internet.  Later that afternoon we also attended a Ranger presentation about antlers and horns.

We ate several meals at the Bettles Lodge.

   After spending the night at the baseball field we went to the Bettles Lodge for breakfast the next morning.  We slowly packed our gear and walked around town again before waiting at the edge of the runway for our plane to arrive.  Then, we were suddenly back in Coldfoot having a late lunch before making the drive back to Fairbanks.  

     The trip was over...but we're already making plans for the next one.  Hope it's just as perfect.

The view from the floatplane flying back to Coldfoot.