TLIKAKILA RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP, LAKE CLARK NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA, JUNE 20-26, 2021
Liq'a Qilanhtnu-'stream where the salmon are' (Dena'ina Athabascan)
"The Tlikakila offers a beautiful but all-to-short wilderness float for intermediate boaters with good wilderness skills in a splendid mountain setting in Lake Clark National Park and Preserve."
-Karen Jettmar
The Alaska River Guide (2008)
THE CREW:
Doug Armstrong
Jim Bennett
Trevor Davis
Rick Green
Dylan Hooper
Heather Hooper
Wally Hufford
Julie Stephens
LOGISTICS:
We flew from Nikiski across Cook Inlet to Summit Lake via Alaska West Air. At the end of the trip we were picked up at Lake Clark and returned to Nikiski.
ABOUT THE TLIKAKILA:
This river has a very difficult name to pronounce. In English it is the Tleekak-keela River, and is part of the National Wild and Scenic River System. At about 51 miles in length it has even been featured on a United State postage stamp.
Landing at Summit Lake there is a portage to floatable water that requires some work to find the best route. Once on the water the river soon becomes swift and braided. Below the confluence of the North Fork there are some class III rapids.
The sky above the Tlikakila is very busy with airplanes as this is the main route between Anchorage and Southwest Alaska.
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| Landing at Summit Lake we unloaded our gear to begin our adventure. |
DAY 1: (6/20/21)
Portaging/floating
Departing Nikiski we took a short flight across Cook Inlet ultimately landing at Summit Lake. After unloading our gear onto the shore the plane left.
You're in a moment when the plane flies away. Suddenly you realize you're really out there. For a minute you wonder what you've gotten yourself into. Then, slowly, reality begins to unfold and you remember there is gear to organize and make ready to haul. River travel begins soon and there are miles to be made. The plane is gone. It's time to get on with it.
Lugging our 50+ pound packs to our backs we started the portage in search of the Tlikakila River. Staying on the north side of things we eventually found a path that led us to floatable water. Once our boats were inflated we negotiated three beaver dams, hoisting our packrafts over them and then floating to the next. We caught up with Trevor later in the afternoon where he had already set up his tent. He reported that he had seen a black bear sow and cub as he was floating through the beaver dam section of the river.
Rain began falling as we constructed camp. So, we set up Doug's tarp and sat under it while we ate dinner and held our nightly talent competition. The rain was here to stay for a while, so we met it with smiles of cheerfulness and resignation. Well, mostly we did that, because there wasn't much else we could do about it.
As we were enjoying the evening a couple from Seattle paddled up in an inflatable kayak and stopped to chat. We shared stories and info before they went on their way. It turned out that we would leapfrog each other several times as we traveled down the river.
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| Crossing a stream at the beginning of the portage. |
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| Heather found an antler shed by a moose. |
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| The first water of the Tlikakila. |
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| Dylan and Rick maneuver a packraft over a beaver dam. |
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| An evening under the tarp due to rain. |
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| We held nightly talent contests. This night's event was the Lady Gaga Lyric Interpretation Competition. |
Dylan was the winner.
DAY 2; (6/21/21)
14.4 miles packrafting
After packing up and getting on the river we paddled about a mile to the point where Glacier Creek empties into the Tlikakila. The sun had come out in full force when we came upon the Seattlites as they were breaking camp. We spent some more time visiting with them.
Then it was back to the packrafts and more floating.
For a little ways.
About a mile further down the river we came to the confluence with Glacier Creek. As we were planning our trip we had looked at the map and hoped to spend some time hiking up the Glacier Creek Valley. However, after taking a short walk we found that it would require many stream crossings in deep water to make any distance.
So, we got back in our packrafts and continued down the Tlikakila. Along the way Jim uncharacteristically capsized twice. He later discovered that it was due to the load strapped to his bow, which would shift whenever he was in big enough waves. This would throw off the balance of his raft causing him to flip. Once the load was secured all was good.
Arriving at the confluence of the North Fork we decided to stop and set up camp. That evening we held the Pose Like a Famous Statue contest in radiant sunshine. Even though the rain had subsided the wind continued to blow like a banshee. Fortunately we were in a semi protected space and the wind was mostly just a part of the background.
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| Trevor floats in some very cold water wearing his dry suit. |
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Heather waits for her dinner to hydrate.
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Day 3: (6/22/21)
0 miles, rest day at North Fork Camp
This day was spent lounging at the North Fork Camp. We did make an attempt to hike up the valley, but once again our efforts were foiled by deep water and brush. Trevor was able to make it about two miles up the valley before he turned around.
Back at camp we essentially spent the time visiting and enjoying each others company. Then we conducted the mother-of-all-slingshot-competitions. It was a huge event. Taking turns with the slingshot we ultimately got 15 shots each. Every time the thwack of the target was heard there were cheers and applause from the others in the group. It was a rousing contest indeed.
The sun was out. The wind was constant. Many airplanes passed overhead. We counted a total of 58.
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| Julie participating in the slingshot contest. |
DAY 4: (6/23/21)
12.1 miles packrafting
When I woke up I tried to turn on my inReach so I could send out the daily update to family and friends at home. However, after repeatedly pressing the power button nothing happened. Making numerous and creative attempts to turn it on, I became resigned to the fact that it had failed. It wouldn't work. Luckily we had two other inReach devices with us on the trip. We ended up being very happy for the redundancy of bringing them along. I put my inReach in the bottom of a bag where it stayed for the remainder of the trip.
With all the inReach drama settled, we readied our packrafts and attitudes for the paddle through the class III rapids we had read about. They were just below the North Fork and we took it easy making the approach. At one point we stopped in an eddy where Dylan and Heather made the decision to portage. The remainder of the group paddled to the end of the rapids and waited for them. Turns out the portage was extremely difficult due to the bushwhacking. Dylan and Heather decided to go back to the the river where they inflated their boats so they could float the remaining water to catch up with the rest of the team.
In the meantime the remainder of the group once again crossed paths with the Seattleites. They had been making several trips along the edge of the river to portage their gear around the rapids. It was a surprise for all of us to bump into each other in the dense brush along the river.
Once reunited with Dylan and Heather, our group continued to paddle down the river to our next campsite where we experienced more wind and rain. We set up tarps and actually went to our tents early to get out of the weather. There were no contests or fabulous prizes on this evening. Julie got a weather forecast on her inReach which called for even more wind and rain.
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| Jim juggles some stones along the edge of the Tlikakila River. |
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| Float on. |
DAY 5; (6/24/21)
21.0 miles packrafting
Rain continued as we prepped for another day on the river. We travelled a good long way before finding a campsite where we set up the tarp once again due to the wet weather. This evening we conducted the Tlikakila River Poetry Slam. The poems were very good! Here are a couple of examples:
The river with the name,
no one can say.
The origins are small,
all tough to find.
As the miles go, the river grows.
As the rapids peak,
don't be deterred.
The portage is heinous,
and is better avoided.
The water mellows and joy follows.
~Dylan Hooper
Worthies gathered to discuss trips.
The name Tlikakila was on peoples lips.
Mr. Hufford was the one who discovered the scene,
and made plans to gather people that mattered from hither and yon.
They humped their loads faster than toads (just barely), the first day.
On the second day they rallied in the sun-so much fun.
They pursued to aspire memories,
acquired in beauty,
friendship to admire together.
~Rick Green
At the edge of the river we placed a couple of paddles in an X for the Seattleites to see if they passed by. Late in the evening Jim had a chat with them before they continued to the shore of Lake Clark.
Then, just before bedtime the clouds parted and the sun came out. It was so glorious that we had an impromptu slingshot contest and ended up trying to see who could propel a stone to the other side of the river. It was a very pleasant way to end a rainy and windy day.
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| Laura and Danny-an adventurous couple from Seattle. |
DAY 6: (6/25/21)
9.1 miles packrafting
We broke camp and paddled toward Lake Clark. We happened to meet the Seattleites at the lake where we learned it was Laura's birthday. So, of course, we sang 'Happy Birthday' to her!
We then paddled around the corner to our final campsite where we set up the tents in sunshine as the wind kept the bugs away. The Seattleites showed up not too much later and told us they decided not to paddle across the lake to Port Alsworth. We all thought that was a great decision. We used Julie's inReach to a arrange a water taxi ride for them, but the boat was not able to make it that afternoon due to high winds and waves on the lake.
So, the Seattleites merrily joined our group and we spent the evening sharing stories and participating in a
Name That Tune contest. The Seattleites won the Fabulous Prize of a package of Rolos, which they shared with everyone. They fit right in.
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| Checking out the maps. |
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| Adjusting gear along the Tlikakila River. |
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| Paddling the Tlikakila River. |
DAY 7: (6/26/21)
Return to Nikiski via floatplane.
We awoke around 7:00 AM and had a message from Alaska West Air on Trevor's inReach to be ready for pickup at 9:00 AM. We had a casual breakfast and readied our gear for departure. Flying above the Tlikakila River on the return trip we caught glimpses of the route we had traveled by packraft just days before. By 10:00 AM we were back in Nikiski.
The Seattleites would be picked up via water taxi later that morning and arrive in Port Alsworth in time to catch their flight back to Anchorage.
Back in Nikiski we reconvened at the Hoopers for an afternoon barbecue to celebrate the end of another successful trip. Dylan even cooked some of his bear brats for us which a special treat indeed and a fitting way to end a special trip.
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| Loading the floatplane for our flight back to Nikiski. (photo courtesy Laura) |
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| Group photo: (L to R) Heather Hooper, Rick Green, Trevor Davis, Jim Bennett, Wally Hufford, Dylan Hooper, Julie Stephens, and Doug Armstrong. (photo courtesy Laura) |
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| GPS track of our trip. |
