TLIKAKILA RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP 2021

TLIKAKILA RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP, LAKE CLARK NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA, JUNE 20-26, 2021

Liq'a Qilanhtnu-'stream where the salmon are' (Dena'ina Athabascan)

"The Tlikakila offers a beautiful but all-to-short wilderness float for intermediate boaters with good wilderness skills in a splendid mountain setting in Lake Clark National Park and Preserve."

-Karen Jettmar

The Alaska River Guide (2008)

THE CREW:

Doug Armstrong

Jim Bennett

Trevor Davis

Rick Green

Dylan Hooper

Heather Hooper

Wally Hufford

Julie Stephens

LOGISTICS:

We flew from Nikiski across Cook Inlet to Summit Lake via Alaska West Air.  At the end of the trip we were picked up at Lake Clark and returned to Nikiski.

ABOUT THE TLIKAKILA:

This river has a very difficult name to pronounce.  In English it is the Tleekak-keela River, and is part of the National Wild and Scenic River System.  At about 51 miles in length it has even been featured on a United State postage stamp.  

Landing at Summit Lake there is a portage to floatable water that requires some work to find the best route.  Once on the water the river soon becomes swift and braided.  Below the confluence of the North Fork there are some class III rapids.  

The sky above the Tlikakila is very busy with airplanes as this is the main route between Anchorage and Southwest Alaska.

Landing at Summit Lake we unloaded our gear to begin our adventure.

DAY 1:  (6/20/21)

Portaging/floating

Departing Nikiski we took a short flight across Cook Inlet ultimately landing at Summit Lake.  After unloading our gear onto the shore the plane left.  

You're in a moment when the plane flies away.  Suddenly you realize you're really out there.  For a minute you wonder what you've gotten yourself into.  Then, slowly, reality begins to unfold and you remember there is gear to organize and make ready to haul.  River travel begins soon and there are miles to be made.  The plane is gone.  It's time to get on with it.

Lugging our 50+ pound packs to our backs we started the portage in search of the Tlikakila River.  Staying on the north side of things we eventually found a path that led us to floatable water.  Once our boats were inflated we negotiated three beaver dams, hoisting our packrafts over them and then floating to the next.  We caught up with Trevor later in the afternoon where he had already set up his tent.  He reported that he had seen a black bear sow and cub as he was floating through the beaver dam section of the river.  

Rain began falling as we constructed camp.  So, we set up Doug's tarp and sat under it while we ate dinner and held our nightly talent competition.  The rain was here to stay for a while, so we met it with smiles of cheerfulness and resignation.  Well, mostly we did that, because there wasn't much else we could do about it.  

As we were enjoying the evening a couple from Seattle paddled up in an inflatable kayak and stopped to chat.  We shared stories and info before they went on their way.  It turned out that we would leapfrog each other several times as we traveled down the river.

Crossing a stream at the beginning of the portage.

Heather found an antler shed by a moose.

The first water of the Tlikakila.

Dylan and Rick maneuver a packraft over a beaver dam.

An evening under the tarp due to rain.

We held nightly talent contests.  This night's event was the Lady Gaga Lyric Interpretation Competition.

  Dylan was the winner.

DAY 2;  (6/21/21)

14.4 miles packrafting

After packing up and getting on the river we paddled about a mile to the point where Glacier Creek empties into the Tlikakila.  The sun had come out in full force when we came upon the Seattlites as they were breaking camp.  We spent some more time visiting with them.  

Then it was back to the packrafts and more floating.  

For a little ways.  

About a mile further down the river we came to the confluence with Glacier Creek.  As we were planning our trip we had looked at the map and hoped to spend some time hiking up the Glacier Creek Valley.  However, after taking a short walk we found that it would require many stream crossings in deep water to make any distance.  

So, we got back in our packrafts and continued down the Tlikakila.  Along the way Jim uncharacteristically capsized twice.  He later discovered that it was due to the load strapped to his bow, which would shift whenever he was in big enough waves.  This would throw off the balance of his raft causing him to flip.  Once the load was secured all was good.  

Arriving at the confluence of the North Fork we decided to stop and set up camp.  That evening we held the Pose Like a Famous Statue contest in radiant sunshine.  Even though the rain had subsided the wind continued to blow like a banshee.  Fortunately we were in a semi protected space and the wind was mostly just a part of the background.

Trevor floats in some very cold water wearing his dry suit.

Heather waits for her dinner to hydrate.

Day 3:  (6/22/21)

0 miles, rest day at North Fork Camp 

This day was spent lounging at the North Fork Camp.  We did make an attempt to hike up the valley, but once again our efforts were foiled by deep water and brush.  Trevor was able to make it about two miles up the valley before he turned around.  

Back at camp we essentially spent the time visiting and enjoying each others company.  Then we conducted the mother-of-all-slingshot-competitions.  It was a huge event.  Taking turns with the slingshot we ultimately got 15 shots each.  Every time the thwack of the target was heard there were cheers and applause from the others in the group.  It was a rousing contest indeed.

The sun was out.  The wind was constant.  Many airplanes passed overhead.  We counted a total of 58.

Julie participating in the slingshot contest.

DAY 4:  (6/23/21)

12.1 miles packrafting

When I woke up I tried to turn on my inReach so I could send out the daily update to family and friends at home.  However, after repeatedly pressing the power button nothing happened.  Making numerous and creative attempts to turn it on, I became resigned to the fact that it had failed.  It wouldn't work.  Luckily we had two other inReach devices with us on the trip.  We ended up being very happy for the redundancy of bringing them along.  I put my inReach in the bottom of a bag where it stayed for the remainder of the trip.   

With all the inReach drama settled, we readied our packrafts and attitudes for the paddle through the class III rapids we had read about.  They were just below the North Fork and we took it easy making the approach.  At one point we stopped in an eddy where Dylan and Heather made the decision to portage.  The remainder of the group paddled to the end of the rapids and waited for them.  Turns out the portage was extremely difficult due to the bushwhacking.  Dylan and Heather decided to go back to the the river where they inflated their boats so they could float the remaining water to catch up with the rest of the team.  

In the meantime the remainder of the group once again crossed paths with the Seattleites.  They had been making several trips along the edge of the river to portage their gear around the rapids.  It was a surprise for all of us to bump into each other in the dense brush along the river.    

Once reunited with Dylan and Heather, our group continued to paddle down the river to our next campsite where we experienced more wind and rain.  We set up tarps and actually went to our tents early to get out of the weather.  There were no contests or fabulous prizes on this evening.  Julie got a weather forecast on her inReach which called for even more wind and rain.

Jim juggles some stones along the edge of the Tlikakila River.

Float on.

DAY 5;  (6/24/21)

21.0 miles packrafting

Rain continued as we prepped for another day on the river.  We travelled a good long way before finding a campsite where we set up the tarp once again due to the wet weather.  This evening we conducted the Tlikakila River Poetry Slam.  The poems were very good!  Here are a couple of examples:

The river with the name, 

no one can say.

The origins are small, 

all tough to find.

As the miles go, the river grows.

As the rapids peak,

don't be deterred.

The portage is heinous, 

and is better avoided.

The water mellows and joy follows.

~Dylan Hooper

Worthies gathered to discuss trips.

The name Tlikakila was on peoples lips.

Mr. Hufford was the one who discovered the scene,

and made plans to gather people that mattered from hither and yon.

They humped their loads faster than toads (just barely), the first day.

On the second day they rallied in the sun-so much fun.

They pursued to aspire memories,

acquired in beauty,

friendship to admire together.

~Rick Green

At the edge of the river we placed a couple of paddles in an X for the Seattleites to see if they passed by.  Late in the evening Jim had a chat with them before they continued to the shore of Lake Clark.

Then, just before bedtime the clouds parted and the sun came out.  It was so glorious that we had an impromptu slingshot contest and ended up trying to see who could propel a stone to the other side of the river.  It was a very pleasant way to end a rainy and windy day.

Laura and Danny-an adventurous couple from Seattle.

DAY 6:  (6/25/21)

9.1 miles packrafting 

We broke camp and paddled toward Lake Clark.  We happened to meet the Seattleites at the lake where we learned it was Laura's birthday.  So, of course, we sang 'Happy Birthday' to her!  

We then paddled around the corner to our final campsite where we set up the tents in sunshine as the wind kept the bugs away.  The Seattleites showed up not too much later and told us they decided not to paddle across the lake to Port Alsworth.  We all thought that was a great decision.  We used Julie's inReach to a arrange a water taxi ride for them, but the boat was not able to make it that afternoon due to high winds and waves on the lake.  

So, the Seattleites merrily joined our group and we spent the evening sharing stories and participating in a Name That Tune contest.  The Seattleites won the Fabulous Prize of a package of Rolos, which they shared with everyone.  They fit right in.

Checking out the maps.

Adjusting gear along the Tlikakila River.

Paddling the Tlikakila River.

DAY 7:  (6/26/21)

Return to Nikiski via floatplane.

We awoke around 7:00 AM and had a message from Alaska West Air on Trevor's inReach to be ready for pickup at 9:00 AM.  We had a casual breakfast and readied our gear for departure.  Flying  above the Tlikakila River on the return trip we caught glimpses of the route we had traveled by packraft just days before.  By 10:00 AM we were back in Nikiski.

The Seattleites would be picked up via water taxi later that morning and arrive in Port Alsworth in time to catch their flight back to Anchorage.  

Back in Nikiski we reconvened at the Hoopers for an afternoon barbecue to celebrate the end of another successful trip.  Dylan even cooked some of his bear brats for us which a special treat indeed and a fitting way to end a special trip.

Loading the floatplane for our flight back to Nikiski.  (photo courtesy Laura)

Group photo:  (L to R) Heather Hooper, Rick Green, Trevor Davis, Jim Bennett, Wally Hufford, Dylan Hooper, Julie Stephens, and Doug Armstrong.  (photo courtesy Laura)

 

GPS track of our trip.

SPENCER GLACIER/PLACER RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP

SPENCER GLACIER/PLACER RIVER PACKRAFT TRIP, CHUGACH NATIONAL FOREST, ALASKA, JUNE 7-8, 2021:

THE CREW:

Doug Armstrong

Jim Bennett

Wally Hufford

Troy Zimmerman

LOGISTICS:

We hopped aboard the Alaska Railroad Chugach Explorer at Portage and took the short ride to the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.  Hiked to the camp area and set up tents for the night.  The next morning we paddled around the glacier bergs at Spencer Lake before floating down the Placer River back to Jim's vehicle which we had parked at the Seward Highway.

DAY 1:  (6/7/21)

(Train ride/short hike to camp)

Jim had sent out a text.  The weather forecast was good.  Was anybody interested in the Spencer Glacier/Placer River packraft trip?  The responses came in quick and affirmative.  We all went online and got our one-way train ticket to the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop and packed our gear.  Before we new it we were assembled as a group at the Portage Train station waiting for the train to arrive so we could hop aboard.

The train ride is splendid in its own right and we enjoyed the scenery as we chugged along the rails.  Arriving at the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop we waited for our gear to be unloaded before shouldering our packs and making the short hike to the camp area.  On a packraft trip it's funny how an overnight trip requires almost the same amount of gear as a week(s) long trip.  The only difference really is the amount of food needed.

So, we shouldered our packs and made our way to camp, which was near Spencer Lake.  The evening was spent hiking around the area, telling stories, and participating in a spicy slingshot competition.  While we were at the lake we watched as the guides rowed against the howling wind and through the glacier bergs with their clients.  They really had to strain at pulling oars and maneuvering the rafts.  We watched carefully to see how far away they stayed from the bergs because we wanted to keep that same distance during our float.

Jim Bennett readies gear to be loaded onto the train at the beginning of our trip.

The train arriving in Portage.

Doug Armstrong and Troy Zimmerman aboard the Alaska Railroad...pandemic style.

Arriving at the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.

Troy participates in the evening slingshot competition.

DAY 2:  (6/8/21)

(Float on Spencer Lake/packraft Placer River back to Seward Highway)

By morning the wind had diminished significantly, so we ate a quick breakfast and readied our gear for a float on Spencer Lake and the trip down the Placer River.  It was magical to float amongst the massive glacier bergs that had run aground in the shallow water near the edge of the lake.  We actually paddled around Spencer Lake for a couple hours before heading down the river.

There are just a couple rapids and the remnants of a wrecked train car to avoid as you begin floating the Placer River.  After that it's an easy paddle back to the Seward Highway on calm water.  But, the scenery is unbeatable and definitely holds a paddlers interest.  Arriving at the highway we deflated our rafts and waited for Jim and Doug to shuttle the vehicles.  Then it was just a ride home.  The trip was over.

Now we just wait for another good weather window and a text from Jim for the next adventure.

Early morning paddling amongst the glacier bergs.

Jim takes a photo of the face of Spencer Glacier.

Doug floating down the Placer River back to the Seward Highway.

Packrafters on the Placer River headed back to the Seward Highway.

 

HESKETH ISLAND 2020

The Hufford family loves a good adventure.  That's how we found ourselves aboard the DREAMCHASER and on our way to Hesketh Island which is located in Kachemak Bay, near Homer, Alaska.  As we left the Homer Small Boat Harbor a huge flock of gulls took to the air.  It seemed as though the sky was filled with birds as we passed under them.

Laura aboard the DREAMCHASER passing under a flock of gulls as we depart the Homer Small Boat Harbor.

Captain Zach was at the helm and told us to be on the lookout for orcas which had been seen regularly in the area for the past few weeks.  Right on cue as we motored through Eldred Passage the whales appeared.  Zach slowed the boat and let us get a very good look at them as they surfaced in regular intervals.  It was an excellent start to an excellent trip.

                    An orca surfaces as we make our way to Hesketh Island.

As we arrived at the island Zach gave us some useful advice about how things work.   He told us about the catchment water system, the sauna, and some the activities we might pursue while we were there. Zach and his wife Becky own and operate Porter's Alaskan Adventures and they are awesome.  We have known them for many years and they are solid folks who know how to make their dreams come true and live them.  

We moved our gear into the cabin and immediately went back outside to enjoy the beautiful weather.  We took a short walk down the beach to the sauna and checked things out.  We met Zach and Becky there and had a good chat about our families and Hesketh Island.  Back at the cabin we all sat on the porch and soaked up the sun and view of Tutka Bay, which was directly across from our cabin.  I could have sat on that porch for a solid two days.  

But, we had some exploring to do.

                    The DREAMCHASER and Hufford family at Hesketh Island.

The cabins were built about 20 years ago and they remain as solid as can be.  Ours had sleeping arrangements for six and a galley with every utensil and cooking implement you could ever need.  The view out the front window is spectacular and can be enjoyed while eating meals or during rambunctious cribbage tournaments.

                    The cabin at Hesketh Island.

                    The well equipped galley area.

                    The view through the cabin windows.

In order to explore the nearby water we rented a double kayak from True North.  They delivered it to the island where it was waiting for us upon our arrival.  We were eager to launch just before high tide and paddle toward Elephant Rock.  We hoped to be able to kayak under the elephant's trunk and our timing was perfect!  Laura and I kayaked back and forth under the trunk trying to get good photos of our efforts.  

The next day Mrs. Huffy and I went for a ride, but she was unable to hold a paddle due to the thumb surgery she had earlier in the summer.  So, I paddled us to Elephant Rock and back from the stern position while she enjoyed the ride.  

We also took several additional kayak trips during our stay at the island to check out Grass Island and Kayak Beach.  There is no shortage of destinations for a paddler!

Emily and Mrs. Huffy in front of the cabin beside our double kayak.

Passing under the elephant's trunk at Elephant Rock.

Laura sea kayaking near our cabin on Hesketh Island.

A group of kayakers near Elephant Rock.  The tide was too low to kayak under the trunk at this time.

Our sea kayak cruising the waters near Hesketh Island.

(photo courtesy Laura Hufford)

As mentioned, we played a major cribbage tournament during our stay at the island.  Some of the games were louder than others as we worked our way through an extensive winners and losers bracket system.  All the results were kept on a chart and Emily was the ultimate champion.  She seems to win lots of cribbage tournaments.

We also spent some time using the binoculars to watch the wildlife and boat activity in front of the cabin.  Seals and sea otters passed by and we watched as several fishermen hauled in halibut while their boats were anchored not far offshore.  In the evenings, Laura and Elizabeth enjoyed the sauna and jumping into the ocean afterward.  We also found time to walk along the beach and look at the tide pools when the tide was low.

Emily...the Hesketh Island Cribbage Tournament Champion!

Cribbage concentration.

Using binoculars to watch the wildlife.

The sauna.

Sisters walking together along the Hesketh Island beach.

Two nights and three days passed quickly and the time to leave came too soon.  We slowly packed our gear and hauled it to the water's edge where Zach would pick us up and give us a ride back to Homer.  The adventure was nearly over, but we had a wonderful time on Hesketh Island, and I have a feeling we will be

returning in the very near future!

Below: A sea otter watched us as we kayaked around Grass Island.

(photo courtesy Laura Hufford)

TUTKA BACKDOOR TRAIL 2020

Julie, Dan, Mandy, Doug, Heather, Dylan, Wally, ready to board the floatplane for the flight to Taylor Bay.

THE CREW:
Dan Adair
Mandy Adair
Doug Armstrong
Dylan Hooper
Heather Hooper
Wally Hufford
Julie Stephens

LOGISTICS:
We drove to Homer, Alaska where we caught a floatplane via Northwind Air to Taylor Bay.  At the end of the hike we were picked up by water taxi at the head of Tutka Bay and returned to homer.

About to land at Taylor Bay.

Julie watches the floatplane depart Taylor Bay.

DAY 1:  (7/5/2020)
6.5 miles backpack

Once you step off the floatplane in Taylor Bay the Tutka Backdoor Trail goes straight up.  In fact, you spend the next several hours climbing straight up for nearly 1600 feet.  It will probably be the most demanding backpacking you have ever done.  Moving through forests and eventually breaking out above tree line into the alpine is the reward that awaits you.  In the alpine navigation is done by following strategically placed cairns.  But, fog and mist made them extremely difficult to find.  Our group depended on Dylan and his cell phone upon which he had downloaded a GPS track of the trail.  So, with the help of Dylan's phone we stayed within a few feet of the "trail" as we walked through the clouds.  And, it was cloudy.  On one occasion a pond appeared right next to us as the fog lifted.  It was just a few feet away from us, but we hadn't known it was there due to the fog.  By the time we reached to top we were ready for lunch which we ate in a small protected area out of the wind.  Full of food we happily stood up and set off for the Taylor River.  We crossed more alpine and eventually made our way back down into the forest.  Along the way we saw a black bear about 45 yards off the trail.  It hardly paid us any attention and we tried not to disrupt it as we walked along.  Arriving at the Taylor River we were relieved to see the water level was very low and knew crossing it would be easy.  We waded through the water and happily dropped our packs on the other side and set up camp for the night.  We were in a celebratory mood as we stood around a small campfire talking before going to bed at 8:00 PM.

Heather and Mandy in the alpine.

Backpackers in the fog.

Eating lunch in the alpine.

Mandy and Doug above the Taylor River.

Baackpackers in the fog.

Hiking cairn to cairn in the fog.

Backpackers passing through a ravine.

Backpackers conference.

Crossing a stream high on a mountainside.

Crossing the Taylor River.

DAY 2:  (7/6/2020)
unknown miles, backpack (miles are unknown due to batteries in GPS running out of power)

It started to rain in the middle of the night while we slept at the edge of the Taylor River.  We awoke to wet tents and a soaking drizzle.  However, after eating breakfast and moving around for an hour or so the rain subsided and we readied our backpacks for the coming day.  It was pretty much a repeat of day one--we started straight up another mountain right from the get go.  It was at least another 1600 feet of elevation gain.  Again the fog and mist created navigational difficulties but Dylan continued to keep us on course with his phone.  Then, just as we were about to cross the High Traverse we ran into another group of hikers.  It was none other than Hig, Erin, Lituya, Katmai, and Steve--the creators and maintainers of the trail.  They were out doing some trail maintenance.  We had a wonderful conversation about the trail and they gave us some helpful hints about what was to come.  Then we took off across the High Traverse which is high and on the steep side of a mountain.  Unfortunately, we couldn't see down very far due to the fog, but there was easily a thousand feet of nothing but air below our footsteps.  We eventually made it to a wide open plain where we set up camp.  We could tell there were tall mountains all around us when the fog would thin, but had no idea of their grandeur because the tops were encased in clouds.

Meeting Erin, Hig, Lituya, Katmai, and Steve near the High Traverse.

Camp 2 after the pinch and before Tutka Pass.

DAY 3:  (7/7/2020)
6.2 miles, backpack

We woke to much better weather and the views were spectacular!  Sharp jagged mountains reached up all around us.  We ate a leisurely breakfast while enjoying the view.  After breaking camp we made our way to the bottom of Tutka Pass which we knew would be another grind.  After a couple of hours we made it to the top and had lunch.  Looking down the other side of Tutka Pass we could tell we were in for some glorious hiking.  The valley we would be walking along stretched far into the distance and appeared to have a very gentle grade.  We took off walking from cairn to cairn and eventually found a tread which made for easy walking through the boulders.  We did have to leave the trail for a short distance in order to cross a sketchy segment of snow in an avalanche trough.  We could see numerous openings in the snow field where the trail appeared to go and decided it would be much safer to go down the ravine where the surface of the snow looked to be solid.  After crossing we hiked further down the valley. We made two stream crossings and arrived at a meadow area where we made camp.  This would make a wonderful place to stay for two nights as we planned to explore the nearby Infinity Pools area the next day.

Camp 3/4 near the Infinity Pools.

DAY 4:  (7/8/2020)
Day hike from camp to Infinity Pools

The big item on this day's agenda was a hike to the Infinity Pools.  They weren't far away so we took our time eating breakfast. Then we climbed a small ridge and hiked to the pools.  Everyone went their own speed taking in the surroundings along the way. A sow and cub black bear scrambled up the hillside as we walked along.  We lingered at the pools for a long time everyone going different directions and then gathering at a high point where we ate lunch and took in the views.  It was a beautiful place.  We returned to camp where we spent the remainder of the afternoon chatting and eating dinner.  Later in the evening we watched a black bear forage high on the ridges above us and spotted a mountain goat as well.

This place made me very happy.

DAY 5:  (7/9/2020)
5.3 miles, backpack

It rained for a good part of the night and it was still damp as we packed our gear and readied for the hike to the Tutka River.  Once again we followed cairns along the valley and ultimately came to a well established trail which we hiked along to Lunch Mountain.  The views from there were awesome.  We could see from Tutka Bay all the way across Cook Inlet to Mt. Illiamna.  We stopped to eat at Lunch Mountain and continued to enjoy the views.  Then it was down a steep descent to the Tutka River where we set up our tents for the evening.  We had lots of fun with a stone throwing contest at the edge of the river.  I used the inReach to contact our water taxi and arranged to be picked up at the head of Tutka Bay the next afternoon.


DAY 6:  (7/10/2020)
2.9 miles, backpack

We enjoyed a very leisurely morning and started hiking at noon.  It wouldn't take long to go the ~2.9 miles to the trailhead at Tutka Bay where the water taxi would pick us up and take us to Homer.  We made a quick stop at Fat Olive's for a celebratory pizza and we were on our way home.  Thoughts of a fantastic trip and plans for future adventures swirling in our heads.

Aboard the water taxi headed for Homer.

WILDLIFE:
Black bear-5
Mountain goat-2
Sea otter-1
Hummingbirds-many

KUDOS:
Erin, Hig, Lituya, Katmai and their maintenance teams deserve a huge thank you for all they have done to make this trail possible.  Their efforts have made this incredible landscape available to all of us.