Sunday, August 15, 2010

...finding Byron Glacier

On the way to Byron Glacier we drove out Skilak Loop Road. We stopped at Upper Ohmer Lake and saw this scene along the edge of the water.
The fireweed is nearing the top.

The seasons are changing and so are the colors of the vegetation.


We found Byron Glacier at 4:17 PM.
With the Hufford girls on vacation in California, Gabby and I needed a side project to fill the time. We had already been fishing several times with good success while drifting on the river. So, I thought it would be good for Gabby and myself to get a little exercise by going on a glacier hunt. Deciding on Byron Glacier was easy. It would involve a nice drive through the mountains and a pleasant walk along a gentle trail with a spectacular view at the end. Perfect for a guy with a camera and his nine-month-old Labrador retriever.
So, off we went.
Once we were on the highway I got to thinking that it would be a good idea to drive down the Skilak Loop Road. The glacier would wait and there is always a good chance of spotting a bear near Upper Skilak Lake Campground or Hidden Lake. In fact, I had seen four of them out there the previous week. It was early in the morning and Gabby didn't object so down the gravel road we went--hoping to see a bear.
By the time we got to Upper Ohmer Lake we were enjoying the views even though the bears were uncooperative. Well, I was anyway. Gabby had spent most of the trip sleeping. She awoke when I stopped the truck and we got out to walk to the water's edge. There were some nice lily pads to take pictures of and Gabby really liked all the smells. I'm not sure what she was sniffing, but she was going to town with her nostrils.
Back in the truck we continued toward pavement and Byron Glacier. Unsurprisingly, that's when it started to rain. If you live in Southcentral Alaska you probably heard me groan. I also used some...eh hem...words that are unrepeatable here. And, it wasn't just a rain shower. Oh no. It was pounding down rain. I stared straight ahead and kept driving. Both hands gripping the steering wheel. Tightly. We were going on a glacier hunt, Gabby and I, torrential downpour or not.
It was the 29th consecutive day of measurable precipitation and we: BROKE A RECORD! The previous record had been made a long time ago, Jackie Purcell says it was 1951, when it rained for 28 consecutive days. Now we had beaten it and I was there. I wanted to jump for joy...but, you know, I had that grip on the steering wheel and all so I kept driving. In the rain.
Gabby seemed unfazed and quickly fell back to sleep. I drove the truck and grumbled all the way to the top of Turnagain Pass. When we crested the pass and started down the other side I looked into the distance and couldn't believe my eyes. There was sunshine above the Portage Valley. I bit my tongue as fast as could and vowed silence for the remainder of the drive. I didn't want to jinx that valley. Gabby and I had a hike planned and I wasn't about to give Mr. Weather any excuse to drench us on the trail. Besides, I was probably already beyond the point of no return with Mr. Weather.
In silence we drove to the trailhead where Gabby woke up upon arrival her tail wagging wildly. She jumped out of the truck and immediately began the nose exploring. While I strapped on the trail necessities including a pack and camera she pulled at her leash trying to reach just a few inches further. She was prancing around sniffing here and there, glad that everyone in the parking lot wanted to pet her, and sniffing some more. Then down the trail she bounced jubilant to be out of the truck.
We hiked along stopping for smells and photographs and more pets from friendly hikers. In about 25 minutes we were at the snow field below Byron Glacier. There were lots of people taking photos and appreciating the spectacular scenery. But, the best part was that it wasn't raining. The only thing that would have made it better would have been a snowball fight. Because whenever I hike to Byron Glacier with my family we always have the Mother-of-All-Snowball-Fights. Every time. And, just for the record, I usually win (in case Laura is reading this).
Once we looked everything over Gabby and I turned around and slowly made our way back to the truck. It seemed way too soon when we got back to the parking lot but Gabby got right into the seat and fell asleep. All that sniffing had evidently worn her out. I drove over to Portage Lake to see if there were any chunks of glacier floating in the water and then we drove through Williwaw Campground stopping to look at the fish viewing area before we hit the road for home.
We drove steadily and I didn't even care when it started raining as we neared Sterling. The record had already been broken. Besides, Gabby and I had already had a great time...finding Byron Glacier.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

...Big River Lakes

Laura and a Big River Lakes silver Salmon.

Jeri and Keith pose with their salmon.


Mrs. Hufford reels in a silver salmon.
Bear watchers at Wolverine Creek.
A brown bear in the water.
The float plane leaves Big River Lakes after dropping us off for our fishing trip.
Transferring gear and people from the float plane to the boats upon arrival at Big River Lakes.
Tony, our guide, holds Emily's first silver salmon.
The gang and the day's catch.
One of the locals does a little fishing.
The boat ride to Wolverine Creek to watch bears.
The view beneath the wing of the float plane as we leave Big River Lakes.


For the past week my sister and brother-in-law have been visiting from Montana. We took trips to Homer where we walked on the beach and boardwalk, and Seward where we went out on Resurrection Bay and visited the Sea Life Center. But, our biggest excursion was a float plane trip to Big River Lakes in search of silver salmon and bear viewing.
We boarded the float plane at Island Lake, not far from our house, and took off for the short flight to Big River Lakes. On the way we saw a brown bear along the edge of a river and immediately upon landing we watched a sow and cub while the pilot and guides transferred gear from the plane to the boats. We were off to a very good start.
Then we motored down river and plopped our bait into the water. It didn't take long before Emily was reeling in her first silver salmon. And, that's the way the afternoon went. Fish after fish. It took just a few hours to catch our limit and then we were off to a waterfall for photos before boating to Wolverine Creek to watch bears. There weren't any bears when we pulled up, but almost on cue a black bear stepped out of the brush as the guides set the boat anchors. We watched and took photos of the bear for nearly 30 minutes before it was time to go back and clean our catch. Even then our bear viewing wasn't over. As we cleaned our fish a sow and cub brown posed for photos and waited for leftovers in the bushes not far away. We kept a close eye on them although they never posed any problems.

All too soon it was time for us to catch the float plane back to Nikiski. Our pilot took us on an flightseeing trip on the way back as we flew to and around Blockade Glacier. It was spectacular.
Minutes later we were back in Nikiski, glad we made the trip to...Big River Lakes.